Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Ram Said To Offer Special Service Police Truck




Law enforcement isn’t a nine to five job, and the demands placed on first-responders can sometimes take them far off the beaten track. While police cruisers are meant to be tough (and, occasionally, very fast) even the latest law enforcement offerings from Dodge and Chevrolet don’t offer the durability and capabilities of a pickup truck.

Enter the Ram 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 Special Service pickup, a truck designed to support the unique needs of police agencies and other first responders. Built for severe duty applications, the Ram Special Service even comes from the factory with additional door support to allow the use of ballistic panels.

A 220-amp alternator ensure that the Ram has enough power for radio systems and ancillary lights, and a 110 volt power inverter is built into the truck’s dashboard. The 5.7-liter, 390-horsepower Hemi V-8 is also designed for severe duty applications, and features a larger oil cooler and extended life spark plugs.

Inside, there’s 125 cubic-feet of interior volume, stain-resistant cloth seats for driver and passenger, and a vinyl bench seat in the rear. To accommodate communications and computer gear, the center console is deleted, and the shifter for the six-speed automatic is moved to the steering column.

Since it’s designed for law enforcement, all Special Service pickups come with a certified speedometer, and Ram includes both engine hour and idle hour meters to keep track of required maintenance.

Agencies can order the Ram Special Service pickup with the RamBox bed, which gives another 7.3 cubic feet of weatherproof and secure storage. RamBox compartments are lighted, and at 50.5 inches are long enough to accommodate even over-sized items.

All Special Service pickups come with a 3.92 axle ratio, which give the truck a 1,455 pound payload and a towing capacity of 10,000 pounds. The trucks are off-limits to civilians, but police agencies and other first responders can now order them through Chrysler Group Fleet Sales.

Courtesy of Motor Authority

Monday, March 25, 2013

Weekly Maintenance Tips for Your Vehicle!

Maintain your car’s battery


Maybe the manufacturer says your battery is maintenance-free, but don’t you believe it! Check your battery regularly to extend its life and avoid the hassle of being stranded with a dead battery.
  • Begin with the simple: keeping your battery clean. A dirty case can actually cause current to drain. Wipe with a damp rag. Use a mild detergent if necessary.
  • Next, clean the battery posts or terminals. Loosen and remove the negative cable (black or minus sign) first, then the red positive cable. Use a brass wire battery brush dipped in a paste made from a few tablespoons of baking soda and a little water.
  • Inspect the battery case for damage, such as cracks or bulges — signs that a battery needs to be replaced.
  • Reinstall the cables, positive first, and coat the terminals and clamps with a thin coating of grease to prevent new corrosion.
 Courtesy of Readers Digest

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Chrysler Is Back In The Saddle Again!

Chrysler management would rather not frame the Dodge Dart as a referendum on Chrysler's bailout. But was it all worth it? Absolutely.



I understand that Chrysler management would rather not frame the Dart as a referendum on Chrysler's bailout. And yet the question is almost unavoidable: Was it all worth it?
Absolutely.

The Dart—the name had been moldering nicely in Chrysler's backyard for some time—is a front-drive, five-seat sedan somewhere between compact and midsize, priced from about $16,000 to more than $25,000 when the R/T edition appears at year's end. This segment is as competitive and as mass-market as it gets.

In this compact-sedan beauty pageant, the Dart easily scores with clean, sophisticated exterior styling, penned with a restraint unusual for the often-cartoonish Dodge (c.f., the hideous Charger). This is a nice-looking car. Here and there, segment imperatives over-affected design. The car is fully a foot longer and 1.2 inches wider than the Giulietta—thus sacrificing the Giulietta's svelte presence for more cubes of cabin space. Likewise, the Dart's rear end is a tallish lump, a prominent bustle of sheet metal required to enclose the largest-in-class trunk.

The interior design is also satisfying: uncluttered and rewardingly rich, with soft-touch dash and door materials and two notably comfortable and supportive front chairs. Replacing the conventional analog gauges of an instrument panel with a programmable graphics display, the Dart brings thin-film transistor readouts to the masses. An optional 8.4-inch touch screen for navigation/audio/phone and SiriusXM Travel Link—local gas prices, real-time weather and traffic, sports scores, etc.—lives in the center stack. The designers enclosed both panels with a single organic pinstripe of LED lighting that glows pleasingly when you start the car.

Now, the truth is, all of the Dart's segment competitors are good, and some are great. And while the Dart is solidly competitive across all categories, its marketing argument comes down to this: the most gadgets in its class. In addition to the standard graphical IP, four-wheel disc brakes and 10 air bags, the Dart offers a slew of optional electronic safety systems and cabin amenities: smart high-intensity headlamps; blind-spot monitoring; rear backup camera; and "rear cross-path detection," which is a simple radar-based system that alerts drivers to crossing traffic when they are backing out of a parking spot.

The Dart offers a choice of three engines: the 1.4-liter MultiAir turbo (160 horsepower/184 pound-feet of torque); a naturally aspirated 2.0-liter four (160/148); and, with the forthcoming R/T edition, a 2.4-liter four (184/171). These can be paired with a six-speed manual, a six-speed automatic or even a dual-clutch automated manual (mated to the turbo engine). These output numbers mean the Dart has the most torque in its class and more horsepower than all but the iron-block VW Jetta (170).

How's it drive? The Giulietta is one of my favorite front-drive cars, and while the Dart-ifying takes some of the crisp responsiveness out of the platform, and adds size and weight, the Dart nonetheless handles quite well. The electric steering is direct and authoritative. The suspension nicely compromises between road-holding and ride comfort. With the big-wheel-and-tire package, the car is actually pretty athletic.

As for the powertrain, well, there's a problem, but it's easily avoided by not opting for the six-speed manual transmission. The first of these cars I drove—with the six-speed manual and the turbo 1.4 engine—was gallingly lazy at low rpm, almost to the point of being dangerous. I had to very deliberately whip the revs up to a shout in order to get the thing to accelerate, and a couple of times—turning left, finding an open spot in opposing traffic—the car absolutely abandoned me. Yeesh. Awful.

I'm happy to report that with the six-speed automatic transmission, the Dart, with either engine, is vastly more responsive. If I'm spending my own money, I'd prefer the naturally aspirated 2.0-liter with the automatic. It has less torque than the turbo, but it doesn't have the turbo's maddening lag. Plus, the MultiAir engine's injectors clatter noisily, almost like a diesel.
So, some stitches still show. The Dart isn't a perfect car, but it's certainly a lot of car for the money, and it so wildly exceeds the circumstances of its birth it's practically Dickensian. You have to root for it.

Courtesy of The Wall Street Journal

Monday, March 18, 2013

Simple Tips To Extend the Life of Your Car!

Choose a good car insurer





 Sometimes, no matter how careful you are, disaster inevitably strikes — typically in the form of an accident. Make sure that your car will be repaired to the best possible standard by finding an insurer that will pay for parts from the original manufacturer and guarantee the repairs it authorizes.

Courtesy of Readers Digest

Monday, March 11, 2013

6 Tips To Keep Your Car Organized And Clean



When you first got your car, each crumb, receipt, jacket and water bottle was ushered quickly out of its confines and into your home (or the trashcan). However, that immaculate, near-sterile level of care you used to provide your automobile – not the case anymore.

Cars often become dumping sites and end up a bit grimy (adios, new car smell!). Lucky for you, if you make a few changes, you can maintain a clean, organized vehicle without traumatic monthly clean-outs.
 

1. Utilize Organizational Tools

If you’re the type of person who has a personalized organizational system thatoften results in announcing things like, “I know exactly which stack that’s in – I have a refined system!” as people look on in horror, it’s time to make a change, preferably to a system that evokes smiles from onlookers. Consider the bevy of interesting items that will make your life easier:




  • Sticky Dashboard Mat: A wonder product. This vinyl- or gel-like pad (looks similar to a mouse pad) sticks to your dashboard. The surface is tacky to the touch, so you can place your cell phone or iPod on it without it falling to the floor. And don’t worry – it doesn’t leave a sticky residue on your belongings.
  • Tidy Cups: What’s that on your floor? Pens? Glasses? A random lollipop? Slip hanging cup organizers into your cup holders for a place to stow all of those little items.
  • Seat Back Organizers: Those bigger items that roll around in the backseat – think children’s toys, compact umbrella, packaged snacks and everything in between – will fit nicely in a seat back organizer. It’s like an apron for the back of the seat with ample pocket room for odds and ends.
  • Trunk Dividers: Whether it’s groceries or cleaning tools, a trunk divider offers compartments so your larger items remain organized (and in place).
  • Kits/Toolboxes: First aid materials? A jack and a lug wrench? Collect these loose items into separate containers for safe keeping and easy access.
2. Designate Organizational Zones 

Organizing your car doesn’t just mean shoving everything out of sight. When you know where everything belongs, it makes keeping your car neat – and finding what you’re looking for – a total breeze. For example:
  • Glove Box: Manuals, registration and insurance card
  • Console: Tech accessories (chargers, adapters), tissues and gum/breath mints
  • Door Compartment: Maps, atlas and travel literature
3. Tidy Up Your Music Library

Eighty-seven CDs in the front seat of your car does not make for an organized space. Place your CDs into an organizer. Use portfolio style cases that sit on the floor or keep them close with visor organizers. Or, go modern and move your entire collection onto an iPod or MP3 player for major space saving.


4. Set A Schedule

If you keep telling yourself you’ll empty your car of various unnecessary items (the blanket for the picnic two Saturdays ago, perhaps?), you might find it’s still there in three months. Set a simple schedule. Really simple. Like, “I’ll straighten up my car every Friday and wash it Saturday morning.” This method truly works wonders.


5. Tote Cleaning Products

Carry your cleaning products with you, and you’ll actually clean your car. And waiting to spot-treat a coffee spill until nine hours after the fact when you finally get home from work or school? Not very effective. Items to consider:

  • Towels/rags
  • Paper towels
  • Window cleaner
  • Small vacuum/dust buster
  • Carpet stain remover
6. Wash It!

Don’t wait for the rain to do it – it never comes out quite as sparkly! You have a bunch of options for getting the car cleaned. Spend a little extra, and you don’t even have to lift a finger.

  • Professional: The priciest on this list, but bringing your car to a car wash with real people is the most thorough you’re going to get. Professionals will clean your car inside and out, and they happen to have the right products on hand.
  • Drive-Thru: You never even have to get out of your car! Pay at the automated machine (typically $10 or less) and enjoy the suds as you drive through.
  • DIY: In your own driveway or at a pull-in stall that operates on quarters. Either way, your car will get a nice scrub down.
  • Scented Car Freshener: Throw one of these into your car for good measure. A freshly scented car completes the package.
Unless you’re really into waxing on and waxing off, cleaning your car is likely not high on your list of fun things to do. However, by keeping up with organization and cleaning on a regular basis, it will simply become a part of your day (and you just might start to wonder how your car remains so orderly and shiny – must be magic!).

Source: Smarter

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

The story behind America's Chrysler!

Monday, March 4, 2013

What's the difference between synthetic and conventional oil?

Oil
 

The oil we put in our engines serves multiple purposes. It coats the metal parts and allows them to run on a thin, smooth layer of lubrication, thus reducing friction and wear. It works as an additional coolant, holds by-product carbon particles in suspension until the oil filter traps them, neutralizes acids, and employs solvents to keep the engine clean. That’s a serious resumé and if there’s one thing motor enthusiasts love to do it’s debate the merits of one oil over another. Sooner or later somebody brings up the “synthetic vs regular oil” issue and the conversation is literally off to the races with “experts” pressing advantages and disadvantages with knowing passion. Like most arguments, there are degrees of “rightness” and “wrongness” depending on what you’re driving and how you’re driving it. The oil you use in your family car (even if you have tuned it up to breath a little life into that run to the grocery store) isn’t going to be the same oil that goes into a racing engine. Without trying to put an end to a discussion that has no end, let’s look at a few facts.

O bviously “regular” oils are mineral-based products refined from crude oil taken from the ground. Over the past 20 years these lubricants have been “refined” even further, particularly in the area of viscosity enhancers -- meaning modern oils flow better over a range of temperatures. This, in combination with engines that sport tighter clearances and better machining, allow for the use of thin oils that both reduce friction and improve fuel efficiency. In the world of racing, for instance, very few teams are going to be using motor oil with single rated viscosity. (The exception would be some nitro-burners.) Racers not only want efficient operation and greater power, they want the best lubrication of engine parts as quickly as possible. (Start-ups deliver high engine wear, so you want an oil that gets to work quickly.)

Synthetic oils, which have been around since the 1970s, have the same natural ingredients as “oil oil,” but they are distilled in a chemical plant where the concept of refining goes techno-geek. Try getting your head wrapped around the concept of “synthesized-hydrocarbon molecular chains” and base fluids including “ polyalphaolefin, synthetic esters, and alkylated aromatics.” Practically, what the heck does this mean?

Synthetic oils:

  • are all season and have multi-viscosity properties, some flowing as much as seven times faster than regular oil.
  • can stand extremes of engine temperature (some above 400°F) more efficiently.
  • can boost effective horsepower more effectively than thinner regular oils.
  • can be used for as much as 10,000 miles before requiring an oil change.
  • contain fewer contaminants like sulfur, wax, and other elements that contribute to sludge build-up.

Of course, these synthetic oils are more expensive and there are some things they don’t do, including:

  • eliminate the need for oil changes.
  • eliminate engine wear.
  • or improve miles per gallon received.

The major advantage of synthetics is superior lubrication that significantly reduces engine wear over the long term.

For regular drivers and performance car enthusiasts, proponents suggest there’s a place for both types of oil. Conventional wisdom now suggests that you want to use “regular” oil while breaking in an engine. At this phase of an engine’s life, you want some wear to make sure all the components get properly smoothed down. (On the other hand, there are plenty of performance cars that come from the factory using synthetic oil.) Depending on who you ask, this breaking-in period can be as short as 500 or as long as 5,000 miles. At whatever point you choose, however, the switch from regular to synthetic oil is intended to then slow engine wear down as much as possible. (And you don’t want to mix regular and synthetic as that’s a great recipe for sludge.) At the racing level, of course, a team is going to test various oils, determine what horsepower gain is returned, gauge the viscosity and temperature tolerances -- in short, make a science out of oil choice versus engine benefit.

The best answer to this debate may be that there are virtues to both types of oil. Anything you put in your engine from the new car dealer or any modification you make to your vehicle, whether it's a racer or the family car, has to be looked at in terms of the goal you're seeking to achieve. Without question, the chemical composition of synthetic oils have a quality and uniformity at the molecular level that just isn't found in traditional, "regular" oils. Synthetic oils will continue to be fine-tuned in the laboratory to give even higher levels of performance and benefit. As we ask more of our engines, not only in terms of output but in the areas of clean and efficient operation, no one can afford to rule out synthetic oils as a viable option, on or off the track. Like everything about automobiles, lubrication techniques are evolving rapidly and the days of indiscriminately telling the guy at the gas station to "just add a quart" are definitely over.

 

Courtesy of topspeedracer.com